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Ongoing Care
How to keep your plants happy
5/8/20243 min read
For good health and abundant blooms, all plants need three basic things: soil, water, and light. (as well as fertilizer and growing space :) )
In our experience, all Gesneriads (that we grow) do well with the same kind of soil and watering schedule, though their light requirements differ.
Soil
To keep it simple, any kind of peat moss-based mix will work. It needs to be mixed with Perlite (medium or coarse) to increase porosity and prevent root rot. A 1:1 ratio is good for intermittent watering. For wick-watering (see below), increase the amount of Perlite to 2 parts Perlite for 1 part soil mix.
Watering
All Gesneriads do not tolerate overwatering! This can cause root rot and even lead to the death of the plant.
For intermittent watering, it is better to water your plants from the bottom (tray watering). Let the bottom of the pot sit in water for about 15–20 minutes to allow the moisture to distribute throughout the root ball (the surface of the soil should feel moist to the touch). After that time, pour out any excess water. Roots should not sit in standing water. (It’s helpful to put a layer of Perlite at the bottom of your pot.) Water 2–3 times a week, depending on the humidity in your home and when the surface of the soil feels dry to the touch.
For wick-watering, increase your Perlite-to-soil ratio to 2:1. Thread a piece of acrylic yarn through one of the drainage holes before filling your pot with the potting mix. The wick should reach the top level of the soil and hang about 5–6 cm below the bottom of your pot so it can be fully immersed in water in your wicking reservoir. Then all you need to do is refill your reservoir from time to time.
Light
This varies greatly between different Gesneriad species. The lowest light is needed for Petrocosmea and Primulina, a bit more for African Violets (8–10 hours a day), and a lot more for Sinningias and Streptocarpuses (12 hours a day).
To know whether there is too little or too much light—just observe the plant. If it’s too little, the leaves grow larger with elongated stems and will reach toward the light. If it’s too much, the crown will be very tight and small. It may even blanch or burn if exposed to direct sunlight.
Fertilizer
We use a balanced fertilizer (something like 20-20-20), 1/8 tsp per gallon of water, added to our wick reservoirs. From time to time (about once a month or so), we just use plain water. For your new seedlings you can start fertilizing them when they are repotted into their individual pots (if your potting mix does not contain fertilizer added by manufacturer) or about three month after (if it does).
Repotting
We primarily grow miniature varieties, which tend to need more frequent repotting—typically every 4–6 months or whenever they outgrow their containers. Keep in mind: these plants prefer to be somewhat root-bound in order to bloom well.
As a general rule:
Non-tuberous species: The pot should be about 1/3 the diameter of the crown.
Mini Sinningias: The pot should be about twice the size of the tuber.
How Deep Should You Plant?
Streptocarpus (species and hybrids)
Plant them at the same soil level as they were in their previous pots. If planted too deep, the base of the plant can rot due to excess moisture.
Sinningias
There’s some debate about the best planting depth:
Some growers recommend covering the tubers with 0.5–1 cm of soil (~½ inch).
Others prefer to leave the top of the tuber exposed.
We've tried both methods and found no significant difference in growth, with one exception:
→ Micro Sinningias always do best when the base of the stems is left uncovered.
In practice:
Planting deeper can help support long stems that might otherwise flop.
For larger tubers, leaving the top third exposed can create a striking “caudex” look, showcasing stems emerging directly from the tuber.
Dormancy
Most mini Sinningias in our collection grow year-round. They produce one or more stems that bloom for several months, then dry out—often just as new growth begins to flower. It's important to note that we use consistent artificial lighting throughout the year. Under natural light, however, plants may slow their growth as day length shortens, eventually losing foliage and going dormant.
If dormancy occurs, reduce watering to once every one or two weeks to prevent the tubers from drying out. Keep them in the same pot. Once you notice new growth, repot into fresh soil and gradually increase watering—or, if using a wick system, place the wick back into the water reservoir.
Alternatively, you can dig up the tubers, let them air-dry for 3–4 days, then clean off old roots and soil. Store them in a sealed plastic bag, checking periodically for signs of new growth. When growth appears, replant and resume watering.
Micro Sinningias rarely go dormant unless under extreme stress (e.g., extended drought). If they do, treat them the same as minis.
This is a basic guide to get you started. With time, you’ll learn what your particular plants prefer.
Happy growing! :)
Miniature Beauties
Little Blooms. Lasting Delight
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